Through the Maritime Silk Road, China was able to connect with different nations from Southeast Asia to the Arabian Peninsula. Its commercial peak happened during The Song (960-1279) and Yuan (1271-1368) dynasties, and during that time, the country wasn't just able to trade products but also share its distinct heritage with the world. One of the things that made its maritime trade a success was the City of Quanzhou.

 

Located in Fujian province on the southeast coast of China, Quanzhou (pronounced as chen-jow) is one of the four major Chinese ports. Called Zayton by Arabian traders, it is known as one of the birthplaces of Minnan or Hokkien culture, making it a hotspot for trade and cultural exchange.

 

With its rich history and unique customs, Quanzhou has been inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2021. Its entry also recognizes 22 sites like historic monuments, transportation networks, and Islamic edifices, spotlighting its diversity and the camaraderie China established with other countries including the Philippines. In fact, the families of Filipino-Chinese entrepreneurs who are now based in Manila are from Quanzhou.

 

“Throughout history, Quanzhou and the Philippines have shared a close and enduring connection,” said Liu Linshuang, president of Quanzhou International Overseas Friendship Association. “This longstanding relationship continued during the Ming Dynasty when Chinese merchants and settlers from Quanzhou found a new home in the Philippines. Today, the Filipino-Chinese community from Quanzhou stands as one of the Chinese diasporas in the world.”

 

Through a trip led by the Quanzhou Radio and Television Station, Manila Bulletin got to see its ancient structures, experience its customs, and savor the flavors of Minnan cuisine. These intangible treasures, as they say, truly make Quanzhou the perfect spot to discover China's ancient culture and heritage that are still alive today.

 

Women of Xunpu

 

In Xunpu, a fishing village in Quanzhou, women are hard to miss because of the way they dress. They put on elaborate floral headdresses, which are called Zanhuawei. Wearing it is said to be brought by Arabians who came to Quanzhou in the Tang and Yuan Dynasties. This has been practiced by the women of Xunpu for years, with some special arrangements only worn for specific occasions. The goal is to dress a woman's head like a spring garden. Young ladies wear that look, but for elderly women, the floral headdress design is simpler.

 

Apart from the female villagers' traditional way of dressing, Xunpu’s beauty can also be seen in its ancient structures. Its oyster heritage is alive in the walls of its humble buildings. People of the village mix oyster shells with sea mud in building their houses. While some of the shell houses in Xunpu Village were established in the late Song Dynasty and early Yuan Dynasty, research showed that the type of shells used were not native to Quanzhou, but in Africa at that time. These shells were found on African beaches and loaded on empty ships to make them more conducive for navigation as Chinese traders traveled back home. These shells are then stacked along the coast of Xunpu, and villagers use them to make their houses strong enough to withstand floods, typhoons, and earthquakes. The structures also offer the best spots for photographs after tourists get their Zanhuawei.

 

The best way to cap off the Zanhuawei is by munching on its oyster pancakes. The dish is made of fresh oysters cooked in a batter made from sweet potato and egg with garlic shoots. One can eat the fried dish on its own, but many locals prefer it with sweet chili sauce.

 

Ancient Sites

 

Among the things that solidified Quanzhou’s place on the UNESCO World Heritage List is its historic architecture. One of the must-visit temples in the city is the Kaiyuan Temple. Located in the northwest part of the city’s old town, Kaiyuan Temple is known as the largest Buddhist temple in Quanzhou. Founded in 686 AD during the Tang Dynasty, the temple features diverse cultural relics and towering East and West pagodas. It is home to a mulberry tree that is over a thousand years old.

 

On the other side of the city is another heritage site that played a vital role in Quanzhou’s commercial and trade activities. Situated in the Luoyang River is the Luoyang Bridge, a 731-meter-long that connects the city to Fuzhou and the nation’s heartland. By walking on the bridge, one can learn more about the city’s oyster cultivation and discover its history through stone pavilions and temples. While the stone bridge served as a transportation hub before, it is now a beloved spot for locals and tourists to chill, and savor the natural beauty of the city, and a dining hotspot with its myriad of bars and restaurants on the sides of the bridge.

 

Crafted by hands

 

Quanzhou’s pride also lies in its preservation of Minnan culture, especially in its crafts. At Yuanhe 1916, tradition meets modern with its old buildings and new contemporary cafes. Inside the cultural industrial creative park is a spot where Chinese opera, folk art, and traditional performances are showcased.

Chinese opera played at Yuanhe 1916

Also on display there are the different artisanal works of Chinese craftsmen and artists. Spotlighted were artist Wu Jiandong's botanical and scenic carvings on red bricks. Enchanting are the wood sculptures of Zhang Hongping. While artist Huang Ziyan’s works present the intricacies of creating Chinese marionettes.

 

A taste of Minnan

 

One of the things the world, especially Filipinos, are familiar with is Chinese dishes. We have our dim sums, noodle dishes, and steamed buns. But have you tried sandworms? The Anhai Sandworm Jelly is a traditional snack that is made of worms growing in the seaside dirt. It is definitely far from the savory Chinese dishes Filipinos love, but it is something one should miss trying. And the best place to try that and other treats unique to Quanzhou is Zhongshan Road.

 

Honored with the  UNESCO Asia-Pacific Award of Merit, Zhongshan Road is a 2.5 km commercial strip that travelers will often find themselves in when they are in Quanzhou. It boasts many clothing, jewelry, and medicine stores, as well as restaurants and food stalls to round up the Quanzhou experience. There is a lot to see and discover on Zhongshan Road, so travelers are best to equip themselves with hand-held eats and sips. Our recommendations include stinky tofu, the traditional mung bean cake, and mango jelly juice to quench your thirst. Best to explore it at night as Zhongshan Road becomes a golden place with lights and lanterns illuminating its traditional arcade designs.

 

 

By JOHN LEGASPI