Over 10 kilometers away from the city of Quanzhou in the Fujian province of China is the small fishing village of Xunpu. There, people thrive thanks to the gifts of the Jinjiang and Louyan Rivers. But apart from its oyster produce, what makes the coastal village known to many is the way its women dress.

 

In every alley of Xunpu, there are women wearing vivid colors and prints. But what is hard to miss are the floral headdresses they are wearing called Zanhuawei. These botanical headpieces are imbued with China's heritage, making them among the cultural treasures of the country. During a trip led by Quanzhou Radio and TV Station, dubbed “Exploring Quanzhou: Experiencing the World Heritage Through Philippine Media,” Manila Bulletin Lifestyle got to experience Xunpu’s unique dressing heritage and discover the other elements that make the riverine area a perfect spot to learn more about the country's folk culture.

 

A garden in your head

 

Wearing Zanhuawei is said to be brought by Arabians who came to Quanzhou in the Tang and Yuan Dynasties. This has been practiced by the women of Xunpu for years, with some special arrangements only worn for specific occasions.

 

To wear a Zanhuawei, women tie their hair in a chignon with a shark bone or chopsticks to secure it. The bun is then adorned with a wreath of two to three layers of seasonal tiny flowers. To make it more eye-catching, bright red and peach hairpins are added, as well as fresh flowers. The goal is to dress a woman's head like a spring garden. Young ladies wear that look, but for elderly women, the floral headdress design is simpler.

 

Apart from the Zanhuawei, Xunpu's women also wear black or blue trousers commonly called wide tube pants. Many of the female villagers pair them with pink floral tunics. They adorn themselves with a unique type of earrings called the Clove Hook. The earrings mimic the shape of a fish hook or a question mark, and much like the Zanhuawei, their design changes according to the wearer's age. Married women wear smaller ones called the Clove Pendant, while grandmothers don the Mom Clove Pendant.

 

Another look Xunpu women wear is the hemlock. This kind of clothing is loose with a half-high collar, oblique placket, and chest covering. The front piece is made of different colored cloths and fabrics. Its many designs can be worn as work attire, daily look, or wedding ensemble.

 

In 2005, Xunpu women's clothing tradition was successfully applied for the first batch of intangible cultural heritage protection projects in Fujian Province. After three years, their dressing custom was recognized as one of China's "national intangible cultural heritage."

 

Shell houses

 

Apart from the female villagers' traditional way of dressing, Xunpu’s beauty can also be seen in its ancient structures. Its oyster heritage is alive in the walls of its humble buildings. People of the village mix oyster shells with sea mud in building their houses. While some of the shell houses in Xunpu Village were established in the late Song Dynasty and early Yuan Dynasty, research showed that the type of shells used were not native to Quanzhou, but in Africa at that time.

 

Quanzhou was an important port for China's foreign trade. Most of the merchant ships were loaded with silk and porcelain and set sail from Xunpu. As Chinese traders prepared for their return, they would load the ships with shells scattered on the beach if there was no cargo to make them conducive for navigation. These shells are then stacked along the coast of Xunpu, and villagers use them to make their houses strong enough to withstand floods, typhoons, and earthquakes.

 

These "shell houses," which recorded the history of Quanzhou and the splendid culture of the “Maritime Silk Road,” have attracted a large number of Chinese and foreign tourists and art lovers. The structures also offer the best spots for photographs after tourists got their Zanhuawei.

 

Oyster pancakes

 

The best way to cap off your Xunpu experience is through food. There are many food kiosks around the area offering a myriad of street foods, from fish balls and other skewered seafood. But the best treat to savor in Xunpu is the oyster pancake. Basically, the dish is made of fresh oysters cooked in a batter made from sweet potato and egg with garlic shoots. One can eat the fried dish on its own, but many locals prefer it with sweet chili sauce.

 

In 2021, Quanzhou City in Fujian, China was added to the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage list. It is the home of 22 sites, from administrative establishments and structures to religious buildings and statues, and the distinct Minnan culture and other Chinese folk traditions.

 

 

By JOHN LEGASPI